Andreja Brulc's Blog

‘Lost and Found’: Typographic Easter

Posted in Lost and Found by andrejabrulc on 06/04/2013

In my post of last year on how to dye Easter Eggs in onion skin with leaf pattern as part of the ‘Lost and Found’ series, I explained the reason why the ‘lost and found’ notion was applied in the method of dying eggs traditionally used in Slovenia. This year I decided to push my culinary skills even further – I pulled my sleeves and set on the adventure of making another essential item traditionally prepared for the Easter feast (and Christmas) in Slovenia – the baking of potica. I have never done this kind of roll before, so for me it was ineed the beginning of the new adventure! Potica is a culinary symbol of Slovenia from where it spread around the world, so I thought that this festive roll ought to serve as the base for my typographic touch!Happy Easter_2

The context

Potica, also known as povitica, is a yeast-raised sweet dough rolled with a variety of fillings (apparently around 50 different kinds of fillings are used), but the most famous filling traditionally used is without doubt a walnut paste.

Potica is first mentioned in historical documents in 1575. It is also famously described as a festive dish in The Glory of the Duchy of Carnolia, a historical and typographical account of the Slovenian lands under the Habsburgs in the 17th century by a Carnolian nobleman, scientist, polymath and a fellow of the Royal Society (London) named Johann Weikhard von Valvasor.  Some researchers claim that its origins go back even further in history. For instance, the ethnographer Damjan J. Ovsec suggests that potica was already prepared in medieval monasteries by nuns. The linguists also point out that the word potica comes from the Latin word ‘potissmus’ suggesting a cake that is very tasty and delicious. Such a cake would at the time normally be prepared in the monasteries for church dignitaries, from where it would spread through the social strata via feudal lords (castle) to townspeople (towns) and peasants (villages).

Method

Every family has its favourite recipe and can vary from one household to the next. My method of making it comes from my childhood memory of how both my grandma and my mum took a great care in the preparation of the ingredients needed for the baking and how they tackled the whole process.

The rule number one: the selection of walnuts in particular is considered very important – their age and whether they are dried properly and so on! My whole family would gather around the kitchen table a few nights before in order to engage ourselves in crashing the walnuts out of their shell – of course, one went into my tummy, the other on the floor and the third one onto the pile for the roll! All recipes suggest that you ought to grind the walnuts very finely but I broke the rule – my electric blender is a bit outdated so it ground them between fairly fine to medium. The paste came out a bit more coarse than usual but in my opinion it was an improvement!

The rule number two: beat the dough until smooth and filled with bubbles. I remember my grandma and my mum how they leaned over their large metal pot laboriously beating their yeast dough for ages. This process is apparently essential but I decided to break the rule yet again and kneaded it instead (circa 10 mins).

The rule number three: before your start, leave out all the ingredients to the room temperature (1 hour). I recall how my mum yelled at us if one of us left the door open while the dough was being raised! It is important that your kitchen is warm during the making, so absolutely no draughts are allowed!

The rule number four: all Slovene recipes suggest you use fresh yeast – to which you add warm milk and sugar – in order to raise it first before it is added to the rest. But no need for the fresh yeast (which is hard to find in London!) as dry one does the job just the same – you sieve it into the flour and then add all the ingredients!Slovenska kuharica

However, the list of ingredients and their proportions were taken from my dilapidated copy of the Slovene cookery book (1970) written by a nun called Felicita Kalinsek, who is famous in Slovenia for her writing and teaching on cooking. You may laugh – but I was taught by her how to cook when I was 14! I have been embarrassed by this for a long time (being sent to a nunnery by parents to do knitting, crocheting and cooking) but now I am more than delighted to write this down! After all, all the best cooking, historically speaking, was perfected in monasteries!

Dough

Ingredients

1 liter bread flour (approx 630 g)
1 pack dry yeast (weight for 630 g flour)
1/4 liter warm milk (you can add a bit more later depending on the dryness of your flour)
100 g butter
1 lemon grind
1 drop vanilla extract
4 egg yolks (the recipe suggests 2 to 5 but I would say the fewer the softer the dough but less yellow and tasty!)
1/2 teaspoon salt and sugar

Instructions

1. Sieve the flour into a large bowl. Make a hole in the flour, into which you sieve the dry yeast.
2. In a separate bowl, mix warm milk, butter, sugar and yolks.
3. Add the mixture to the flour and add the salt.
4. Mix all together until the dough is fairly dry. Then knead the dough for 10 mins.
5. Leave the dough in a larger bowl to raise (approx 1-2 hours depending on the warmth in your kitchen, or radiator if you have not got much time!). Meanwhile, prepare the filling.

Filling

Ingredients

70 g butter
3 egg yolks (2 egg whites)
250 g sugar
1 lemon grind
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
4 large spoon single cream
1 liter walnuts (when ground, separate walnuts evenly into two bowls – 50:50)
1/2 teaspoon salt and sugar

Instructions

1. Mix butter with egg yolks and sugar until creamy.
2. Add spices, cream, half a litter of walnuts and whisked egg whites.

Preparing the roll

1. Use the dough roller to flatten your dough so that it is about 1cm thick.
2. Evenly distribute the wet filling onto the flat dough. Sprinkle the second (dry) part of the walnuts on top.
3. Optionally you can add raisins (not sultanas). Generally I am not so keen on ‘squashed flies’, but as my potica was made for my British family who like raisins, I used the largest ones (approx 1-2 cm tall) I could find in our corner shop – and I am now converted! Sultanas = ‘squashed flies’ versus large raisings = ‘the real thing’!
4. Roll the dough as tightly as you can into one long roll. The roll was then cut into 3 even parts (approx 20cm long) to fit my bread tins. Each piece was topped with cream and smoothed with a brush.
5. Raise potica while in tins for another hour. Then bake it for approx 1 hour at 170 degrees (fan oven). Note: if it is browning too fast on top, place some aluminium foil to prevent the crust from burning!

Advertisements

‘Lost and Found’: How to Dye Easter Eggs in Onion Skin with Leaf Pattern

Posted in Lost and Found by andrejabrulc on 07/04/2012

Easter Saturday is for different cultural traditions the last chance to prepare for the great Feast on Easter Sunday, and one of the most important elements to this Feast are of course Easter Eggs. Our today’s preference may be for the one made in chocolate, but the making of Easter Eggs is traditionally not associated with chocolate but rather with the process of dyeing.

Lost and Found

Today, I shall be testing my culinary skills by using the traditional method of dyeing chicken eggs in onion skin and making patters using various leaves I can find in the garden. The method, described below, is very easy indeed, enjoyable and fun thing to do with your kids that does not take very long (1 hour max).

Why the ‘lost and found’ notion in the method? When I moved to London 20 years ago, even I could not resist the temptation of the modern chocolate eggs for many years to come but a few years ago the above result came into existence, a mixture of both worlds (below pictures from 2012, my second attempt)  – the traditional method, however, comes from the kitchen of my granny and my mum as well as many women before them in Slovenia, and it certainly seems to be one of the most popular methods in Central Europe. By a quick browse of the internet, the origins of the method of dyeing in onion skin seems to have been widely used in various traditions including in the Greek Orthodox Easter, though the Jewish Passover seems to be by far more closely related to the method I shall describe as it uses various leaves for making patterns. It would be a fun to find more about the origins of this method by next Easter! According to my British mother-in-law, who was brought up in her second home around Newcastle away from the bombs flying over Kent to London during the WWII, dyeing eggs in onion peel also has a very long tradition in the North of England, and I believe, in Scotland. She told me today, this Easter Sunday, that leaves are also added to the egg but onion skin is then attatched to the egg. However, in her method, the leaf design comes out more blurred or even abstracted. I am glad we are able to share our experiences in the making of Easter Eggs. Through reconnecting to our roots and traditions, preparing Easter Eggs is indeed the basic way how to share our experiences in similarities and differences – isn’t that what ‘multi-culture’ is all about? It goes back to the kitchen! And, also it is the place where the competitions begin – here, Master Chef competition series comes in mind! The aim about this article is not to compete but to share, as the making of Easter Eggs is also a celebration of our generations.

The context

But before I describe my method, I would like to place the making of Easter Eggs into the context. The method of dyeing chicken eggs is nothing new. It goes back as far as pagan times, used to celebrate the beginning of Spring – the celebration was focused on the theme of rebirth of nature after a long period of winter and the egg became a symbol of the source of life. This concept is still a core to many cultural traditions around the world. Just like in the case of decorating Christmas Trees, the making of Easter Eggs was also incorporated into Christianity, both in Western and Eastern Churches. The process of recycling this old pagan custom gave a different meaning to the making as it became associated with the body of Christ – there are, however, some local variations, for instance in central Europe, an egg dyed or painted in red came to represent the blood of Christ. But in both cases, the egg is a symbol of resurrection. Natural dye for Easter Eggs was made from local resources, from extracting various vegetables and plants found in nature. For instance, in central Europe, such as Slovenia, one of the most common dyes used was red due to the abundance of red beets. Later on, when industrial colours became available, eggs would be painted with bright colours, or even processes such subtracting, adding, marbling or whatever pattern is desired to achieve was introduced. The method of dyeing seems to be still a more popular choice in Catholic Eastern and Central Europe as well as Orthodox Church. Furthermore, in Christianity, the Easter egg tradition may have further emerged as a celebration of the end of 40 days of fasting during the Lent period. Traditionally, all eggs would be consumed a day before the Lent begins on Ash Wednesday (Mardi Gras in French) – in UK, Shove Tuesday is reserved for making pancakes and in Slovenia, for making doughnuts as part of the carnival tradition – and then by no means to be eaten until Easter Sunday!

On the other hand, the West has predominantly embraced a more modern custom with chocolate eggs of various sizes or plastic eggs filled with confectionery such as jelly beans. Chocolate Eggs are indeed a modern invention, as a result of industrial revolution of the 19th century that enabled a mass production. They first appeared in Germany and France as Easter presents. The Continental fashion spread to UK, with Cadbury Easter Egg that first appeared in 1875 – according to the Locally Sourced, the maker informs them that their Creme Egg  is the number one best seller of Easter Eggs in the world, with more than 213 million eaten every year! The number is rather astonishing, as, in my opinion, I only tried the egg once, but could not finished – I am not a chocoholic, so for me too much sugar rather than cocoa, is rather nothing that something.

Chocolate Easter Bunnies also came from the southwestern Germanic tradition of early 17th century – the mythical humanoid rabbit that brings baskets of coloured eggs to children. The Germans further invented a very popular children’s Easter Egg Hunt, now played across the globe – in which children have to search for eggs in the garden on an Easter Sunday morning that Bunny left them hidden there over night! In addition, the Germans were also the first who created edible Easter Bunnies in the early 1800s. Rabbits and hares, of course, have nothing to do with the Christianity, so this element is purely of a pagan origin, as symbols of springtime rebirth and fertility. Many other traditional games have developed around Easter egg, including competitions of eggs rolling down the hill or tapping each other’s eggs. Also, exchanging Easter Eggs as presents has generally become a way of expressing love and friendship.

Method

I normally use a pack of 12 medium size Free Range Eggs.

Advice: while using the skin from 5 ordinary onions, add skin from 2 red onions as it gives an extra kick to the intensity of natural colour. If you do not have the red sort in your cupboard, that’s fine too, they will just appear lighter in brown colour.

If you feel lazy, you can just add your eggs straight to the water full of skin, then slowly bring to boil and cook them for 10 mins with the gas down. Once cooked – some people say it’s best to leave them in water to cool down so that they do not go green on the rims of the yellow of the egg, while others believe that if you pour over them with cold water after cooking is finished, you get a better result. I agree with the second option!

For decoration

1. First collect various leaves of plants, grass and weeds from your garden – the better the shape the better result.

2. Recycle your old tights / nylon socks – if you have them in your wardrobe, otherwise the cheapest kind in your corner shop will do, cut them into pieces larger than the egg, and find the  thread for a later use.

3. Then stick a leaf onto each egg or wrap around it, and by holding it down tight on the egg, wrap the piece of tights around the egg. Then squeeze gently the piece of  tights so that it holds the leaf well in place, and while twisting the end tightly, finally wrap around the thread, so that the piece of thighs stays put on the egg during cooking. One egg done, more to go, the same process, different design.

4. For an extra shine, when the eggs are more or less cooled down, add a bit of olive oil on a piece of paper kitchen towel, put the egg onto it and by holding them both in your hands gently roll the egg among your hands.

Of course, again, I had to add chocolate eggs, I live in London after all, where different cultures meet and mix. Happy Easter.

%d bloggers like this: